Your First Camping Trip in Your Travel Trailer

So you've bought a new or new-to-you travel trailer. The friendly seller gave you a quick rundown of all the systems, but now you're ready for your first shake-down trip. Here are some tips to help make it go more smoothly.

NOTE: I am not an expert on this subject, these are simply my personal observations based on my experience with our own travel trailer. Yours will be different. For the complete story, consult the owner's manual, dealer, manufacturer or a qualified technician.

PACKING AND LOADING
There are many items you will want to leave in the camper permanently, like dishes, pots, pans, tools, bath towels, perhaps some clothing, etc. These will be stored in cabinets and drawers and you want to be sure they are secure while moving down the road. Place pillows or towels on top of items in drawers and cabinets, and secure cabinet doors and drawers with bungee cords, paracord, etc.



Plug in the camper with an extension cord a day or two in advance and turn on the refrigerator (you will probably need an adapter to go from the camper plug to a standard extension cord). Then you can load up your food the night before and it will stay nice and cold for the trip. Yes, it's possible to leave the refrigerator running as you travel (it can run on propane and your "house" battery), but leaving the propane flowing while moving down the road is a safety risk.

Next you will need to load your non-refrigerated food and other gear needed for that specific trip. The key is to keep the load low, balanced (side to side and front to back) and secure. I pack food and other gear in crates, duffel bags, etc. and place them on the floor, under the table, in the tub, etc. When the load in your camper is properly balanced, your tow vehicle should be level. If you notice that the front end of your tow vehicle is slightly high, shift some of the load to the rear of the camper, and vice versa. Otherwise, steering and handling can be adversely affected.

It's best to travel with the water and waste tanks empty (or nearly so), but you may want to carry a gallon jug or two of water for flushing the toilet as needed as you travel. Handiwipes are indispensable.

I always disconnect the "house" battery after I return from a trip, so I reconnect it when it's time to leave again.

FINAL PRE-DEPARTURE CHECKS

• Check trailer lights (brake, turn, etc.).
• Fold up steps.
• Check tire pressure on trailer and vehicle, including spares, adjust as needed (Note: having your own air compressor to check tires before you leave is very handy, as it can be difficult to maneuver close enough to the units they have at gas stations)
• Unplug camper from "shore power"
• Walk around the camper one last time before you depart for a final check

ARRIVAL AT CAMPGROUND

Fill water tank here.

If the campsite doesn't have it's own spigot, then you will need to locate the central water station for the campground and fill up your fresh water tank (go ahead and fill the hot water tank as well, see below). Instead of using the monitor panel to determine when the tank is full, I like to actually watch the tank filling (mine is under the bed). Then proceed to your site and back in.

LEVELING THE CAMPER

If one side of the camper is lower,
then back the wheels on that side
onto leveling blocks (the yellow
blocks in this picture).

Once you've backed into the campsite, use a 24" level (or similar length) to check the side-to-side level of your camper (just place it on the floor inside the camper near the door). Then raise the right side or left side of the camper with leveling blocks placed under the wheels. Simply lay out the blocks behind the wheels and back onto them. Check the level again and then add or remove a layer of blocks until it's right.

Chock the wheels.

Now you can disconnect the camper from your tow vehicle and adjust front-to-back level using the trailer jack. Again, I use a block or stand under the jack. If you don't already have a level indicator on the trailer tongue, be sure to get one.

Next lower the stabilizer jacks. You can use one of those hand crank tools, but it's much easier to use an electric drill. I usually place a wooden block under each jack (e.g. a small section of 2"x6" lumber). Keep in mind that these jacks are designed to stabilize the camper, not raise or lower it.

This level on the trailer tongue tells
me when the camper is level front to
back.

CONNECT UTILITIES
Plug the camper into the electrical box, and check to make sure the breaker for the plug you are using is in the "on" position.

If there is a spigot on the site, connect to it using one of your water supply hoses and a pressure regulator (an inexpensive screw-on device that goes between the hose and the camper).

That being said, I almost always fill up my water tank instead of connecting directly to the spigot. First, this allows me to keep a better handle on how much water we are using so I don't overfill the waste tanks (the level indicators are notoriously unreliable). Second, I don't have to worry about the supply hose freezing if I'm camping in the winter.

An electrical or cordless drill makes
lowering the leveling jacks quicker
and easier.

As you are filling the tank (or when you first connect the hose if you go the direct connect route), turn on the pump and open one of the hot water spigots so that the hot water tank will begin filling. I open the hot water spigot in the kitchen since it is directly above my water heater tank. Once the hot water tank is full, go to each faucet and turn it on until all the air is out and water is flowing freely. Don't forget the shower and toilet.

If you have on-site sewer, connect the hose and open the valve for the grey water tank (leave the black water valve closed and wait until it's full to empty or you can clog the drain line).

You will need to get the right sized
socket for your drill.

Open the valve on your propane tank.

Light the pilot light on the water heater

Turn on the refrigerator.

Now you can set up your awning, put away gear, gather kindling, and start searching for that perfect marshmallow toasting stick.

Water hose connects here (in this
picture, I have an air valve adapter
attached, which is used to blow water
out of the lines to prevent freeze
damage). Also note the electrical
connection on the lower left.

While you are enjoying your visit, if you leave the campsite for an extended time (e.g. for a hike or to see the local attractions), you may want to turn off your water pump or shut off the water supply. That way if your plumbing system develops a leak, you won't come back to a flood. I often turn off the hot water heater as well to conserve propane. If winds are in the forecast, retract the awning as well.

PACKING UP TO GO HOME

Drain plug for water heater.

At the end of your stay, you more or less reverse the process, as follows:

• Retract awning
• Turn off hot water heater
• Raise leveling jacks
• Connect to tow vehicle
• Stow gear and food (remember, low and balanced)
• Secure items in drawers/cabinets
• Secure cabinet drawers and doors
• Strap down TV if it's on one of those swinging arms
• Turn off water pump or disconnect water
• Close valve on propane tank
• Remove wheel chocks and pull forward to collect leveling blocks

If you were connected to sewer on the campsite, go ahead and empty the black water tank. Otherwise, do so at the dump station.

If allowed at the particular campground, I also like to drain my hot water tank (it has a plastic "bolt" plug that is unscrewed with a ratchet, open a hot water faucet to relieve pressure first) and freshwater tank (there is a valve on the side of the camper near the tank). There's no sense carrying that extra weight back home.

Drain valve for fresh water tank.

Proceed to the dump station, if applicable. Connect sewer hose from the camper to the drain (I highly recommend using a backflush valve like the one pictured here). Empty the black water tank first, and rinse it a time or two with the backflush valve or with one of the special spray nozzles that is inserted into the toilet. Either way, you will need a garden hose. To eliminate the possibility of contamination, never use your fresh water supply hose for this. Sometimes you will find a hose at the dump station that you can use, but bring your own to be safe. Finally, add a couple of gallons of water and a dose of holding tank treatment solution per manufacturers instructions (it will slosh around and further rinse the tank as you travel home). Lastly, drain the grey water tank and stow the sewer hose.

Wastewater drain. I use an add-on
backflush valve (the part with the clear
section) to rinse the blackwater
tank after emptying. A water hose
attaches to it so I can run water back
into the tank to rinse it.

BACK AT HOME

• Park and disconnect from tow vehicle
• Unload
• Disconnect battery
• Open all faucets (hot and cold) and then open the low point drain to remove as much water as possible from the plumbing lines.
• If freezing temps are in the forecast, blow out water lines or fill with the special antifreeze made for that purpose. Do a web search for "winterize RV" to learn the specifics.
• Block fridge and freezer doors slightly open to prevent mildew growth.
• Roll up and stow area rugs to prevent condensation underneath

All that's left is to clean the camper so you'll be all set for the next trip!